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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.